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Sounds to Sounds Trail
Day 15 - 23 Feb 2023
Heading Home
Finishing a ride like this is a bit weird.
After 2 weeks of eat sleep ride routine, we just stop doing that!
Huge thanks to Jan for coming to Te Anau to pick us up, and also to Jane for meeting us at Mossburn, and taking Marty and I through to Queenstown. AND, thanks to Paula for the lovely accommodation and taxi services in Queenstown. It feels good to hand the planning to someone else for a while, and also humbling to have people in our lives who will do this for us. THANK YOU!
Thanks also to Graeme (Big Guy) and Marty - you guys are so easy to hang out with, it was "just like putting on an old pair of slippers"! (quoting Marty on Day 1)
Quoting Graeme after getting home: ...a very challenging ride, great achievement, and good teamwork got us through...I appreciate you and Marty as riding mates, we work well as a team."
What will our next team ride be? and when?
Day 14 - 23 Feb 2023
Te Anau - Milford
We'd been warned that the traffic to Milford Sound might be a problem, so we departed Te Anau before 6 am, in the dark and cold. As it turned out, the traffic was not as fast and scary as on the Te Anau Rd the day before.
What a beautiful ride!
I think we were all conscious of this being our final ride day, and Marty and I were trying to soak up the scenery.
I had only been as far as The Divide (start of the Routeburn Track) on earlier visits and I was blown away by the Hollyford valley views from the lookout and the sheer cliffs as we pedalled toward Homer Tunnel.
I'd been concerned about riding with other traffic in the tunnel but when we arrived at the entrance the traffic controller called us forward, holding traffic at both ends, and sending through with a cheery "It's all downhill from here. Enjoy!"
It was a bugs-in-the- teeth downhill and an exhilarating finish to our Sounds to Sounds challenge.
Graeme had arranged for Murray, a friend who had recently relocated to Te Anau, to come out and shuttle us back to town. He regaled us with some great stories, made an excellent recommendation for dinner, and flatly refused our offers of koha. Thankyou for the wonderful, . Southern hospitality Murray.
We wrapped up our final day with a celebratory dinner at the Te Anau Club.
Day 13 - 22 Feb 2023
Lumsden - Te Anau
A damp and cold ride along the cycle trail from the campground in Lumsden got us to Mossburn for breakfast and coffee. We lingered for a second round of hot drinks as the mizzle turned to heavy rain.
As we left the cafe our friends from Christchurch rolled in from their party night in Athol. We chatted with them a little more at the Sprig and Thistle coffee van at The Key. It was here that Graeme and Paul realised they had met on a ride up Bald Hill, proving that in Southland there are just 4 degrees of separation. Marty predicted that in the next conversation they'd discover that they were cousins.
Te Anau was quiet as we rolled in, so we located our house for the next two nights, got cleaned up and ran the final team laundry session. We also removed as many bags as possible from the bikes to lighten the load for our final 124 Km.
By the time we headed to town to shop and hunt down dinner, the tourists had all returned from their day trips and the restaurants were at capacity. We joined the hungry crowds walking the main street in search of sustenance, wishing we'd started our search earlier. We were saved by a Pizza cafe.
Final arrangements were made for our extraction from both Milford Sound and Te Anau, and we turned in knowing our ride was almost
done.
Day 12 - 21 Feb 2023
Bannockburn - Lumsden
The Biggy of the Climbs on this route certainly delivered on its profile. Taking us from just under 300m asI to 1270m asl it also delivered magnificent views over Cromwell and Alexandra.
Day 11 - 20 Feb 2023
Omakau - Bannockburn
Day 10 - 19 Feb 2023
Omarama - Omakau
Day 9 - 18 Feb 2023
Lake Ohau Lodge - Omarama
Day 8 - 17 Feb 2023
Tekapo - Lake Ohau Lodge
Day 7 - 16 Feb 2023
Geraldine to Tekapo
Day 6 - 15 Feb 2023
Glentunnel to Geraldine
Day 5 - 14 Feb 2023
Amberly to Glentunnel
Turns out the mosquito's whine was drowned out by the trucks on SH1, and the rain didn't arrive
After another pre-breakfast 30 km we feasted at the Station Cafe, but not on eggs, as they had none.
Some damp riding took us to Oxford for a compulsory pie stop at the Sheffield Pie Shop (in Oxford).
It being only midday and the dire weather now looking unlikely, we cancelled our motel booking. We were completely unsuccessful at getting back even half of the money for a night's accommodation we weren't going to use.
We arrived at the main Sheffield Pie Shop in time for another pie feast, followed by a pretty then very wet ride to Glentunnel. We attempted to get dinner at the Coalgate Pub, but at the entrance we were told the pub was closed and the door shut in our faces.
Still looking for supplementary dinner/breakfast we stopped at the golf club, and although they were also closed, they were very happy to sell us cabinet food.
The caretakers at the Glentunnel camp ground were stuck in cyclone struck Auckland but their 10 year old daughter did a great job of managing the incoming campers.
Eating our dinner in the camp kitchen was our first sight of the impact of the weather in Auckland, and it was shocking.
Day 4 - 13 Feb 2023
Hanmer Springs to Amberly
Our pre- breakfast warm up ride took us into Culverden for the biggest Full Breakfast Marty had ever seen. Fortunately he was able to get it all stowed inside as it would have been embarassing to have to ask for a doggy bag for a breakfast.
A mostly flat ride had us outside the closed- except-Thursday-to-Sunday Hurunui Hotel for our next stop. We made good use of their picnic table in the shade, only slightly disappointed we weren't eating from their burger and fries menu.
Hawarden 4 Square provided the makings for lunch and some fun conversation about where we were headed (and how there was a shorter way to get there), and then it was time for some gravel road fun.
Our campsite at Amberley didn't quite meet Marty's early expectations, something about proximity to a large number of mosquitos, but we pitched anyway.
Over dinner at the local Indian restaurant we debated if the dire weather forecast would deliver, or if it was just an over reaction to the havoc caused by Cyclone Gabriele. Not being familiar with local weather influences, we opted to book a night at the motel in Oxford, half expecting we'd be swimming at least some of the way there.
We even discussed a late start because it would be raining heavily by 7 am.
Day 3 - 12 Feb 2023
Molesworth Station Campsite to Hanmer Springs
Feeling greatly restored by a good night's sleep on a comfy bed I was ready to face Ward Pass. Marty and Graeme only mentioned a couple of times that my camp fee was the same as theirs, and perhaps it should have matched the level of luxury I'd experienced. Too late now boys!!
Our second day on the Molesworth Road was less taxing than the first, being both shorter (80km) and less hilly. Lunch at the Acheron camp saw us enjoying a Jetboil cafe and contemplating the final 23km.
The ride over Jollies Pass and down to Hanmer Springs was fun and rough - but we'd recommend that you don't choose this road in a car!
Arrival in town and a quick sugar hit from the 4 Square was followed by the usual showers, laundry, bike clean, shop for next day's snacks, and planning over dinner.
We agreed on 129 km to Amberley and booked 3 tent sites for the next night.
Day 2 - 11 Feb 2023
Blenheim to Molesworth Station Campsite
Spectacular!
Challenging!
OMG - Upcot Saddle has an evil twin!
An easy roll out of Blenheim had us at the top of Taylor's Pass in time for a rest and chat to local riders who were using this gravel road for Saturday morning training sessions.
Awatere Valley Rd follows the Awatere River and climbs steadily to Molesworth Station, our planned camp site for the night, traversing a mere 118km and climbing 2260m. Looked OK on paper!
Back in Bleheim the Wine and Food Festival was in full swing, and after we joined the gravel road we meet a string of vintage and classic cars, who, we speculated, were heading to the festival for a weekend outing. By the time we reached Hodder River bridge around 2pm, the traffic had eased, and we stopped for a lunch break.
The road was in good condition, and we appreciated the cloud cover and beautiful scenery, but the relentless climbing was starting to be felt by all threeof us. I was struggling with an unhappy gut and after not being able to eat for a couple of hours, hit the wall somewhere near Upcot Saddle.
After that, the rest of my miserable journey to the campsite was a blur of walking up hills, rolling down, and struggling along the flat bits. After the Moleswoth Gate (ONLY 10km to go!) Marty and Graeme declined my suggestion to ride on to get their tents set up before dark, instead walking and waiting, and pushing my bike up hills, until we finally got there just on dark, after 13 hours on the road, and, apparently, 8.5 hours of riding. (I suspect that my walking stints were too slow to register as moving time on my Garmin)
Nina and Tony, the lovely DOC volunteers at the camp, then made me an un-refusable offer: use of their camper van, and a hot shower. I selfishly accepted, while Marty and Graeme pitched their tents. Nina then brought out a kettle of hot water so we could make dinner, and once hot meals and hot drinks were inhaled, we turned in.
In the 35 seconds before falling alseep, I gratefully reflected on my selfless ride mates, and the generosity of strangers.
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Day 1 - 10 Feb 2023
Punga Cove to Blenheim
After a good dinner and a comfy night at Punga Cove Resort we set off for Blenheim, starting gently, by pushing our bikes up the hill to Kenepuru Saddle!
Kenepuru Rd has been closed to all but resident's traffic as major stabilisation work was carried out after a storm in August 2022. On this Friday there were no work sites operating and we saw only a few cars, so our ride was quiet and very scenic.
We joined the Queen Charlotte Track at Te Mahia Saddle - this being the section of track which is open to cyclists all year - and enjoyed a fun ride to Anakiwa.
Marty had a seat incident on the way down, so we stopped for adjustments, water and a snack. Fortunately the seat was easily adjusted, and equilibrium restored.
After chatting with a local - Graeme's forte - we eagerly set off for a proper lunch at the highly recommended Linkwater Tavern. We took the left turn onto the Picton Road, and after 5km, Marty had to confess that the desired lunch spot was actually in the opposite direction. We pedaled on to Picton for our next meal.
A quick 28km on SH1 had us in Blenheim for our second night.
Day 0 - 9 Feb 2023
Getting to our start at Kenepuru Saddle
This has been a day on the water, but with a few more twists than expected.
Marty and I were due to leave Wellington on the 8.15 ferry to Picton, but a 0125 (!) email advised our departure would be delayed. We eventually departed @ 10 am.
With the trip expected to take 3.5 hrs, this would have us in Picton at 1pm with not much time to spare to get to our Punga Cove transfer boat.
If we missed the Cougar Line sailing our options became:
stay in Picton and catch the 8am boat on Friday, and have a delayed start on the track
or
book a water taxi at a cost of $390 to keep with our planned overnight at Punga Cove.
Graeme was meeting us in Picton from his flight to Blenheim and then a quick ride up SH1. So while Marty and I were staring at the ferry's stern ramp slowly lowering to let us off, Graeme was making our case for the Punga Cove boat to wait.
Fortunately the boat crew were persuaded, and they all cheered when we sprinted around the corner, just 5 minutes late. Whew!
So now the 2020 TA Band is back together, excited and ready for our Grand Depart tomorrow.